Water & chemistry

How to fix a green pool step by step, without wasting chemicals

A green pool is the most common summer emergency call. This guide covers the process professionals follow: what to test before adding anything, how to size the shock dose to the pool volume, and what to do over the following days to get the water crystal clear.

Why pool water turns green

The green colour comes from algae, which bloom when the sanitizer (chlorine, bromine or the salt chlorinator) drops below the minimum for a few days: heat waves, heavy bathing, storms or simply a missed week.

Test before you dose. A pH above 8.0 cuts chlorine's effectiveness to a fraction, and cyanuric acid above 70–80 ppm locks chlorine up even when the reading looks fine. Adding more chlorine without fixing that is money down the drain.

The professional process, in order

  1. 1

    Test pH, chlorine and cyanuric acid

    Write down real values. If pH is above 7.6, correct it first: a chlorine shock barely works at high pH.

  2. 2

    Brush walls, floor and steps

    Algae protect themselves with a slimy layer. Brushing puts them into suspension, where chlorine can actually reach them.

  3. 3

    Apply the shock at the calculated dose

    A green pool usually needs free chlorine raised to 10–15 ppm depending on severity. The exact amount depends on the pool's volume and your product: the Pool Service Hub dosage calculator gives you the grams instantly, with a safety cap and warnings if cyanuric acid is high.

  4. 4

    Run filtration continuously for 24–48 h

    The pump must run non-stop, backwashing the filter when pressure rises. The water will turn grey or milky: that's a good sign — dead algae.

  5. 5

    Vacuum the debris and rebalance

    Once the floor is visible, vacuum the sediment (to waste if the load is heavy) and bring pH and chlorine back to maintenance levels.

Shock target by water condition

Water conditionFree chlorine targetTypical situation
Slightly cloudy5 – 8 ppmFirst algae, floor still visible
Light green10 ppmFloor barely visible, slippery walls
Deep green15 ppmFloor not visible, several days untreated
Dark green / black15 – 20 ppm + repeatWeeks untreated; may need two shocks

Mistakes that slow the recovery

Shocking with high pH

At pH 8.0 chlorine loses most of its sanitising power. pH first, chlorine second.

Skipping the brushing

Without brushing, algae stay stuck to the walls and the shock only kills what floats.

Switching the pump off at night

During recovery, filtration must run continuously; every stop throws algae back into the water.

Forgetting cyanuric acid

Above 70–80 ppm of stabiliser, stabilised chlorine no longer works: you need a water change or unstabilised hypochlorite.

How to stop it happening again

The key is the reserve between visits: if the next visit is 7 days away, the water needs enough slow-dissolving sanitizer (tablets in the skimmer or chlorinator output) to arrive with chlorine to spare.

The Pool Service Hub dosage calculator does that maths for you: it compares today's readings with the last visit to estimate real daily consumption, checks the days left in the schedule and tells you how many tablets to leave or what output to set on the salt chlorinator.

Keep reading: Chemical dosage calculator · How to keep pool water clean · Pool water testing log

Frequently asked questions

How long does a green pool take to clear?+

Between 2 and 5 days depending on severity: the shock kills algae within hours, but filtration needs a day or two to remove the debris and restore clarity.

How much chlorine does a shock need?+

It depends on the pool volume and the target (10–15 ppm free chlorine). As a reference, raising 1 ppm in 10 m³ takes roughly 15–20 g of granular dichlor; the app's calculator gives the exact figure for your pool.

Can you swim after shocking?+

Not until free chlorine drops below 3–5 ppm and the water is clear. After a 15 ppm shock that usually takes several days.

What about saltwater pools?+

The process is the same, but the shock is done with liquid hypochlorite or the chlorinator's boost mode. Check salinity and the cell condition first.

Calculate the exact shock dose from the visit

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